When Life Hands You Bittermelon

Make Goya Chanpuru (bittermelon stir-fry).

Ever since I can remember, my mom has instilled in me the Chinese health philosophy that food and medicine work hand in hand. To maintain good health, one should be aware of bodily clues and symptoms and eat foods that attend to those needs. Rather than depending upon drugs, food is utilized to heal illnesses and to condition the body. I love that.

One comprehensive concept is that all foods have varying degrees of “cooling” or “heating” effect on the body’s “chi”. In the simplest term, the body is regulated by air, or “chi”, which range from cool to hot. This “chi” can change depending on one’s health and environment. Discomfort or even illness can be caused by “chi” imbalance. For example, someone with a case of “coolness” may experience dry cough, low energy, stomach pains, or feel constantly chilly whereas someone with too much “heat” may suffer from nosebleeds, sore throat, or canker sore and skin break outs.

Apart from herbal remedies, food is a common way to help reclaim “chi” balance. In the summer when the weather is hot, bodies naturally store more “heat” so eating “cooling” foods and avoiding “heating” foods will help prevent those icky symptoms. Coolness and heat does not refer to the temperature of the food, but the innate disposition. Bittermelon is considered a highly “cooling” food that is suitable to eat in the summer. In fact, it is translated as “cool melon” in Cantonese.

Bittermelon has a firm, crunchy texture that holds up very well to stir-frying and also becomes wonderfully juicy and tender in soups and stews. (My mom makes a wicked bitter melon, pickled mustard, soybean, and pork-bone soup. I might share that recipe in the future if you bug me about it). Apart from the prominent bitterness, this melon also emits a faint floral scent and tastes very crisp and green. Bitterness is an acquired flavour that is commonly enjoyed in Asian cuisine but it is not welcomed by all, particularly children. In fact, my parents once pleaded with my then-teenage brother to eat bittermelon to battle his acne problem (shh). If you prefer a milder taste, choose younger, lighter colored melons that feel light for their size. Rubbing the melon with salt to purge the bitter water also helps.

Traditional Goya Chanpuru
I first had Goya Chanpuru in a Japanese restaurant in Hong Kong that serves traditional Okinawan cuisine. This refreshing summer dish suits the Okinawan’s year-round beach climate. I added a Chinese twist to my version by marinating the pork, adding flowering garlic chives, and serving it with a Chinese-flavored dipping sauce and Chinese chili paste. (Chili is considered a highly “heating” agent so omit it if this is a concern.)

Ingredients
3 small bittermelons
1-2 bunches of flowering garlic chives, chopped
1 lb. pork, sliced super thinly (or purchase pre-sliced hot-pot/ sukiyaki pork if available)
* Vegetarian Options
4 large, organic eggs
salt
white pepper
3 tbs neutral flavored oil. I used grapeseed oil.
Chili paste of your choice (optional)

Marinate
2 tbs mirin
2 tbs soy sauce
1 tbs cooking rice wine
1 tsp cornstarch
1/2 tsp white pepper
1/2 tsp sesame oil

Dipping Sauce
2 tbs oyster sauce
1 tsp rice vinegar
1/2 tsp honey
1/4 tsp sesame oil

Directions
Cut the melons in half, scoop out the seeds, and slice into 1/2 inch slices. Place them in a colander and rub with 2 tbs of salt. Let the melon slices purge for 1 hour.
Meanwhile, marinate the pork slices. Beat the eggs in a bowl. Prepare the dipping sauce.
After half an hour, rinse the melon with cold water and pat dry.
Heat a wok to medium high heat and add 2 tbs of oil. Stir-fry the melon for 3 minutes. Add the garlic chives and toss for one more minute. Season with salt.

Add the pork slices and stir-fry until the pork is thoroughly cooked but not browned.

Add 1 more tbs of oil, followed by the beaten eggs. Season with s&p and stir gently until the eggs are cooked but still moist.

Remove from the wok and serve immediately with dipping sauce and chili paste.

Serves 4

Vegetarian Options
Substitute pork with pan-fried firm tofu, tempeh, bean sprouts, shiitake mushrooms, or thinly sliced, pre-blanched potato.

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